With a history that dates back to 1948, the Seamaster is Omega's oldest collection still in production today. As a result, the Seamaster is also one of the brand's most varied collections, and is home to an eclectic assortment of models from divers like the OMEGA Planet Ocean to dressy sports watches like the Aqua Terra to vintage-inspired timepieces like the Seamaster 300.
However, the theme that ties all of these different watches together is that they are all based on the original Seamaster promise of robust, stylish, precise, and water-resistant watches built for active lifestyles. Whether you're searching for a topnotch diver, a daily luxury sports watch, or a modern timepiece designed to look like it was made decades ago, the collection has plenty to offer.
During World War II, the brand was a major supplier of wristwatches to the British Ministry of Defense. Due to the nature of how and when these watches were to be worn, they had to be particularly precise and durable. Post-war, Omega took what it learned from developing those mil-spec watches and reinterpreted them for the civilian population. In 1948, the Seamaster collection made its debut as dress timepieces that were waterproof, dustproof, shockproof, and antimagnetic. In the companies own words, these were watches "made for a life of action."
While the original Seamaster models were hardy enough for the active gentlemen, they were still dress watches that could handle getting wet; however, they were by no means dive watches. The company had previously made the Marine watch in 1932 specifically tested and approved to withstand water pressure (the Marine was tested in Lake Geneva to a depth of 73 meters); however, because it is missing essential features like a timing bezel and luminous dial (now standard in diving watches), it is often overlooked when discussing the history of the modern dive watch.
Scuba diving was taking off in the 1950s and companies like Blancpain and Rolex had already added purpose-built dive watches to their catalogs. In 1957, Omega introduced its modern diving watch model in the form of the Seamaster 300 ref. CK2913. It's important to note that despite being called the 300 series, the CK2913 was only rated to 200 meters due to limitations in the company's testing equipment. Together with the Speedmaster chronograph and the Railmaster antimagnetic watch, the automatic 300 model was part of a new trilogy of professional-grade that shared similar broad-arrow handsets coated in radium for luminescence, stainless steel 39mm cases, and matching steel bracelets. However, because this watch was a dive watch, it featured a rotating bezel with a minute scale to track immersion times.
In 1964, the brand updated the line with a 42mm case, a wider bezel with full 60-minute hashes, and different hands. Along with the non-date reference 165.024 version, Omega also introduced the ref. 166.024 with a date window at 3 o'clock. From 1967 until 1971, the British MOD ordered the no-date ref. 166.024 for both its navy and army branches, but modified them to mil-spec standards to include military issue engravings on the caseback, an encircled "T" on the dial to indicate the use of tritium for luminescence, sword-shaped hands, and fixed lug bars.
Although the model eventually disappeared from the catalog sometime in the 1970s, the collection welcomed other models throughout the decades including the Chronostop chronographs in the 1960s, the massive PloProf saturation diving watch in the 1970s, and the Professional 200 dive watch in the 1980s.
In 1993, the company launched what was to become its most popular modern luxury dive watch to date - the Diver 300M. In 1995, the Diver 300M gained worldwide fame thanks to Pierce Brosnan wearing one whilst playing James Bond in the 007 film, GoldenEye. In 2005, Omega added yet another new model to the collections range with the introduction of the 600M dive watch. In recent years, the brand has added faithful reissues and vintage-inspired models to the collection including the Seamaster 1948, the Bullhead, the PloProf, the Railmaster, and the Seamaster 300.
Due to the vast assortment of models, complications, and materials, the price range of the collection varies considerably. Below are all the current models that belong to the collection.
Currently in 2023 an automatic men's in stainless steel starts at around $5,200 at retail and can reach at $42,000 for models in platinum.
Below is a table outlining some of the retail prices for current-production watches.
|Model||Reference||Size & Materials||Retail Price (MSRP)|
|Diver 300M Master Chronometer||22.214.171.124.01.001||42mm; Stainless Steel||$5,400|
|Planet Ocean 600M Master Chronometer||126.96.36.199.99.001||43.5mm; Titanium||$8,800|
|Aqua Terra 150M Master Chronometer||188.8.131.52.06.001||41mm; Red Gold + Stainless Steel||$11,600|
|Aqua Terra 150M GMT Worldtimer||184.108.40.206.02.001||43mm: Red Gold||$26,200|
|Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial||220.127.116.11.01.001||41mm; Stainless Steel||$6,800|
|Railmaster Master Chronometer||18.104.22.168.01.001||40mm; Stainless Steel||$5,200|
|Planet Ocean 600M Co-Axial GMT||22.214.171.124.01.001||43.5mm; Platinum||$95,000|
|Bullhead Co-Axial Chronograph||126.96.36.199.02.001||43mm; Stainless Steel||$9,600|
|Ploprof 1200M Master Chronometer||188.8.131.52.99.002||55 x 48mm; Titanium||$13,800|
As one of the top-three Swiss luxury watch brands in the world, Omega produces a vast assortment of models categorized into four main collections: Seamaster, Speedmaster, De Ville, and Constellation. Below are the current-production watches that belong to the Seamaster collection.
Introduced in 2018 to commemorate the Seamaster's 70th anniversary, the Seamaster 1948 collection houses faithful reissues of the maiden models. There are two main versions of these time-only vintage-inspired watches: one with a central seconds hands and one with a running seconds sub-dial.
In 2014, Omega launched the Seamaster 300 line, using the original ref. CK2913 from 1957 as design inspiration, but updating the watches with larger case sizes, modern materials, cutting-edge movements, and an assortment of metal and color options. The collection is also home to special limited-edition models such as the "Spectre" model named after the 2015 Bond film as well as the “The 1957 Trilogy” reissue of the original reference.
Although the Railmaster made its debut in 1957 as a separate model to serve the growing scientific community, today, Omega's famed antimagnetic watch is part of the Seamaster family. The current-production Railmaster watches stay relatively close to the original design with time-only dials featuring Arabic numerals at the four quarters and stainless steel cases. However, these contemporary iterations offer a handful of different dial options, a slightly larger case, and an impressive antimagnetic resistance rating of 15,000 gauss.
Omega released the Seamaster Bullhead chronograph in 1969, sporting a distinctive case shape similar to a bull's head with the winding crown at 12 o'clock surrounded by two chronograph pushers. There was also another crown at 6 o'clock to manipulate the internal rotating bezel. The modern Omega Seamaster Bullhead chronographs, unveiled in 2014, reinterpret the original model but with significant updates in regards to materials and movements.
Since its inception in the early 1990s, the Diver 300M has grown to become one of Omega's most popular models, available in a wide array of materials and colors. Rated to 300 meters and furnished with a helium escape valve, unidirectional timing bezel, and a highly luminous dial, the Seamaster Diver 300M has everything you’d come to expect from a modern luxury dive watch. However, details like the scalloped bezel, skeletonized sword-shaped hands, and the wave-motif dial also make the Diver 300M a very stylish sports watch. Along with time and date models, there also Diver 300M GMT models and Diver 300M chronographs.
A Diver 300M has been featured in almost every 007 movie since GoldenEye (1995), cementing this particular Seamaster as the modern James Bond watch. Additionally, Omega makes special edition Diver 300M watches (or in some cases, other Seamaster models) with every new Bond movie release.
To mark the Diver 300M's 25th anniversary in 2018, Omega updated the entire lineup with larger case sizes (42mm compared to 41mm), ceramic dials, redesigned helium escape valves, and METAS-certified chronometer movements.
First presented in 2002, the Seamaster Aqua Terra is Omega's sporty luxury watch range with countless variations to choose from, including different sizes, metals, bracelets, complications, and dials. Signature design traits of the Aqua Terra include round cases with smooth bezels, broad-arrow hands, arrowhead indexes, and grooved-dials to mimic the decks of luxury yachts.
In addition to the standard time and date Aqua Terra watches, there are complicated editions such as GMTs, Annual Calendars, Worldtimers and Day-Dates. The collection also includes golf-themed Aqua Terra versions underlining Omega's commitment to the sport. Developed in collaboration golf ambassador Rory McIlroy, Omega introduced the Aqua Terra "Ultra Light" in 2019, weighing a mere 55 grams due to its gamma titanium construction, and accompanied by a hefty $48,600 price tag.
Borrowing a few design traits from the original Seamaster 300 from 1957, such as broad arrow hands, an outer minute track on the dial, and Arabic numerals at the 6, 9, and 12 o'clock locations, Omega unveiled the Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M in 2005. The Planet Ocean is fitted with a helium escape valve and offers a water resistance rating of 600 meters. In 2006, the Planet Ocean joined Omega's round-up of James Bond watches when it was featured in Casino Royale on the wrist of Daniel Craig.
Aside from the standard time and date Planet Ocean models, Omega also makes Planet Ocean Chronographs and Planet Ocean GMTs. Plus, the collection includes some interesting case material options like titanium, ceramic, and platinum to accompany the more standard stainless steel, gold, and two-tone choices. In 2016, Omega refreshed the line with new METAS-certified Master Chronometer movements, and current-production models are equipped with ceramic bezels. Case sizes have been modified over the years and you can find Seamaster Planet Ocean watches with 37.5mm, 39.5mm, 42mm, 43.5mm, or 45.5mm cases.
In the early 1970s, Omega launched the Ploprof 600M and Ploprof 1000M watches (Plongeur Professionnel, or "professional diver" in French) explicitly for technical diving. However, rather than fitting the watches with helium escape valves (HEV's) to deal with the issue of trapped helium molecules, Omega constructed the Ploprof in such a way that helium could not penetrate the case. The PloProf became a favorite tool watch amongst professional deep divers like the COMEX and Cousteau crews.
In 2009, Omega revived the unique diving watch; however, this time the Ploprof models did come equipped with HEV's fitted into their distinctly shaped chunky steel cases. In 2015, Omega updated the modern Ploprof with titanium cases, ceramic bezels, and new METAS-certified movements.
As two of Omega's most famous watch models, a common question that arises is what's the difference between the Seamaster and the Speedmaster. First and foremost, the Speedmaster models are all chronograph watches, sometimes also paired with other, additional complications. On the other hand, Seamasters are not all chronograph watches, although there are a few Seamaster chronograph models.
The Submariner is, of course, Rolex’s flagship luxury diver while the Seamaster Diver 300M is Omega's must-have dive watch. So what are the differences and similarities between the Omega Diver 300M and the Rolex Submariner?
The two current-production models that resemble each other the most are the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M ref. 184.108.40.206.01.001 and the Rolex Submariner Date ref. 116610LN.
|Model||Case Size & Materials||Movement & Functions||HEV|
|Omega Seamaster Diver 300M ref. 220.127.116.11.01.001||42mm Stainless Steel||Time/Date; Automatic Winding; 55hr Power Reserve||Yes|
|Rolex Submariner Date ref. 126610LN||40mm; Stainless Steel||Time/Date; Automatic Winding; 48hr Power Reserve||No|
Whether the Diver 300M, the Planet Ocean, Seamaster 300, or the Aqua Terra, James Bond has been wearing these types of watches since 1995. Here's a list of the models that appear in the various 007 James Bond movies:
Discover what the Seamaster Collection offers technical excellence and elegance watch collectors gawk over. If you're looking for a new unworn or pre-owned Omega watch let Bob's Watches help. Browse our Seamaster models listed above to buy an authentic used Omega seamaster watch. Don't forget to view our full selection of used Omega watches, or visit our sell your Omega page to learn the value of your current timepiece before selling or trading-in your watch.